How to create Amber in Perfume
By Emmanuelle Moeglin, Founder & Perfumer
In short
1
Amber is not a single ingredient but an accord, built by the perfumer.
2
Three components make it: vanilla, resins and musk.
3
It has nothing to do with fossilised amber or ambergris.
Rich, powdery, warm, deep, sweet and spicy. The warm smell of amber is a winter staple, perfect for snuggling up in. Many people imagine amber is a single ingredient, but it is in fact an accord, a small blend of materials built by the perfumer. Here is what goes into it. (For the bigger picture, see our guide to what amber is in perfume.)
The amber fantasy
Amber is a "fantasy" note that lends cosiness and sensuality to a fragrance. The accord is centred on three components, vanilla, resins and musk, and it pairs beautifully with spicy and woody notes while softening the leathery, animalic side of a composition. It is the central note of the amber family, bringing dark yet soft, powdery warmth.
One important point: this perfumery "amber" has nothing to do with fossilised amber resin, nor with ambergris (the marine material from whales). It is purely an olfactory creation, the warm, sweet-resinous effect perfumers call amber.
Frankincense, myrrh and benzoin: the resins that warm the accord.
The formula for a warm, cosy scent
Three elements come together to make an amber accord:
01
The core
Vanilla
Vanilla (and its synthetic counterpart vanillin) is the core, lending its sweet, soft powderiness.
02
Warmth and smoke
Resins
Resins such as labdanum, benzoin, myrrh and frankincense counteract the edible side of the vanilla, adding warm, smoky, deep and earthy facets, along with sophistication and a touch of sensuality. This is what stops the accord smelling simply gourmand.
03
Softness and longevity
Musks
Musks complete it, giving soft undertones and longevity. Synthetic musks like Galaxolide, Muscenone and Velvione bring a comforting, powdery finish that helps the accord last.
How we use amber at EPC
When creating our second collection of Essentials, I envisioned an amber wrapped in powder. The result is Amber Iris: carnal, ambery and enveloping. Smoky incense pierces resinous myrrh, iris contrasts the balsamic labdanum with a subtle powderiness, and syrupy vanilla over patchouli adds a chocolatey hum in the background. A blanket of ambroxan and ambrette seed softens everything into a downiness you can almost feel.
Amber Iris in our Blends
Further reading
Frequently asked questions about creating amber
Is amber a single ingredient?
No. It is a perfumer's accord, a blend built mainly from vanilla, resins and musk, even though it is usually listed as one "note".
What is in an amber accord?
Typically vanilla or vanillin for sweetness, resins like labdanum, benzoin, myrrh and frankincense for warmth and smoke, and musks for softness and longevity.
Is amber the same as ambergris?
No. Ambergris is a separate marine material. Perfumery "amber" is a warm, sweet-resinous accord and contains no fossil amber or ambergris.
What does amber smell like?
Rich, warm, powdery, sweet and faintly spicy. Cosy and sensual, with a soft, enveloping depth.
What fragrances use amber?
It is the heart of the amber family and works beautifully alongside spice, woods and leather.
How do you wear amber?
It comes into its own in cooler weather: warm, enveloping and sensual, the scent equivalent of a soft blanket.
Emmanuelle Moeglin is the founder and perfumer behind Experimental Perfume Club. Classically trained at ISIPCA, with 20 years in the fragrance industry, she is a member of the French Society of Perfumers, a multi-award-winning creator and a public speaker. She designs the brand's blends and teaches perfumery from EPC's central London studio.
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