Three ingredients that make perfume last
By Emmanuelle Moeglin, Founder & Perfumer
These are three base-note materials that refuse to fade in a hurry, the ones that keep a fragrance with you, and on your scarf, all winter. For why longevity varies in the first place, see why your perfume does not last.
In this article
01
Ambroxan, the wonder molecule
Ambroxan, also called ambroxide, is a base note with natural origins. It is the molecule largely responsible for the smell of ambergris, once sourced from sperm whales and no longer used in commercial perfumery. Today it is synthesised from sclareol, a molecule extracted from clary sage, which is exactly why it matters so much to modern, more sustainable perfumery. The scent is warm, woody, sweet and ambery, almost universally liked, and it gives a fragrance a mineral undertone that lingers. More on the wider picture in synthetic versus natural ingredients, and the deep dive in why Ambroxan is the perfect winter smell.
Fresh · Essential · Bestseller
Cardamom Moss
Cardamom, ginger and turmeric over mineral moss and Ambroxan.
02
Iris, worth the wait
Iris carries little scent in the flower. The magic is in the root, called orris, and only one species, Iris pallida, is used in fragrance. Once picked, the roots are dried for up to six years before the powdery, violet-tinged scent fully develops. Distilled, they yield orris butter and then iris absolute: warm, powdery, woody and cashmere-soft, powerful yet subtle. It is impossible to feel cold smelling it. Full story in what iris and orris smell like.
Only one species, Iris pallida, is used in fragrance.
Deep · Essential
Amber Iris
Vanilla, frankincense, myrrh and labdanum with iris absolute.
03
Suederal, leather that is not leather
Think of the new-shoe smell as you lift the lid of a shoebox: soft suede and warm leather. That is Suederal, a leather note with a hint of tobacco and a quietly smoky projection, so a little goes a long way. Here is the twist: untreated leather barely smells of anything. The leather scent we love is built, with materials like Suederal and oils such as birch tar, to recreate that dry, warm, slightly burnt character. Perfect for winter depth.
Soft suede and warm leather: the leather scent we love is built.
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Fundamentals of Perfume Creation: Foundation
Our semi-professional online course: study each fragrance family in depth and formulate its key accords, with a professional perfumer's organ delivered to your home. Learn how base notes are chosen to stay the course.
Find these long-lasting notes in our Essentials: Cardamom Moss and Sable Gris are both built on an overdose of Ambroxan, with Sable Gris adding warm sandalwood and a leathery base, while Amber Iris carries iris absolute through its deep, resinous heart.
Two Essentials, one Blend
Blend · Cardamom Moss + Sandalwood Musk
Sable Gris
Pink peppercorn, Ambroxan, white musks and sandalwood: the shore after the tide.
Bestseller · Try at home
Discovery Set Essentials
All nine Essentials to try at home before choosing a bottle.
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Questions
Frequently asked questions about long-lasting notes
Which perfume ingredients last the longest?
Base-note materials. Woody, ambery and leathery molecules such as Ambroxan, orris and Suederal cling to skin and fabric far longer than fresh top notes.
Why does perfume last longer on a scarf than on skin?
Fabric is not warmed or metabolised the way skin is, so volatile notes evaporate more slowly and base notes can linger for days.
Is Ambroxan natural or synthetic?
It is synthesised, usually from clary sage, but it occurs naturally in ambergris. It gives the warmth of ambergris without harming whales.
Why is iris so expensive?
The scent comes from orris root, which is dried for up to six years before processing. That long maturation, and the tiny yield, make it one of perfumery's most costly materials.
What is Suederal?
A constructed leather note with a soft, suede-like, faintly smoky character. Since untreated leather barely smells, perfumers build the leather effect with materials like it.
How can I make my fragrance last longer?
Choose a scent rich in base notes, apply to pulse points and clothing, and avoid rubbing it in. A spritz on a scarf will carry the scent for far longer than skin alone.
About the author
Emmanuelle Moeglin
Founder and perfumer of Experimental Perfume Club. Classically trained at ISIPCA, with 20 years in the fragrance industry, she is a member of the French Society of Perfumers, a multi-award-winning creator and a public speaker. She designs the house’s blends and teaches perfumery from our central London lab.
The Art of Blending
Warm, lasting base notes, ready to wear.
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