Synthetic vs Natural Ingredients in Perfumery: Which is Better for the Planet?

When it comes to fragrance, many people assume that natural ingredients are always the better choice– purer, more authentic and kinder to the planet. But the truth is more complex.

In reality, some synthetic ingredients can be more sustainable and ethical than their natural counterparts. By looking beyond the label and exploring how ingredients are sourced, we can make more informed choices that support both the environment and the art of perfumery.

The environmental impact of natural ingredients

Nature is at the heart of fragrance, but sourcing natural materials often comes at a cost. Some of the world’s most beloved perfume ingredients require vast amounts of land and water to cultivate. Take sandalwood, for example– overharvesting has led to deforestation and the endangerment of wild sandalwood trees. Similarly, agarwood (used to produce oud) is so highly prized that its natural sources have been severely depleted.

Even crops like rose and vanilla have significant environmental footprints, as growing and harvesting these ingredients can require vast amounts of water and land.

While the romance of natural ingredients is undeniable, the environmental footprint they leave behind is something to consider.

The hidden ethical cost of natural ingredients

Beyond environmental concerns, some natural fragrance ingredients also raise ethical issues. Historically musk was sourced from musk deer, and ambergris came from sperm whales. While modern regulations protect these species, the demand for natural materials has not disappeared.

Even plant-based ingredients pose ethical challenges. Vanilla farming, for instance, is associated with exploitative labour practices, where farmers in Madagascar– who produce around 80% of the world’s supply– often receive unfair wages. Similarly, patchouli and sandalwood harvesting have been linked to poor working conditions and lack of fair trade regulations.

Synthetic ingredients… a more ethical alternative?

Lab-created fragrance molecules provide an incredible alternative. Modern synthetics can replicate the scent of natural ingredients… without requiring the destruction of natural habitats or excessive resource consumption.

For example, bio-identical musks (like Ambrettolide and Galaxolide) offer the warmth and sensuality of musk without harming animals. Similarly, Ambroxan mimics the scent of ambergris without relying on harvesting it from whales. Even vanillin, the primary compound responsible for vanilla’s aroma, is now widely produced synthetically.

Beyond ethical concerns, synthetic ingredients also have a lower carbon footprint. They require less land, water and energy to produce, and their consistency ensures a stable high-quality product without the variability caused by climate change.

So, what does the future hold?

The fragrance industry is undergoing a transformation, blending science with sustainability in exciting new ways. AI is already helping perfumers discover new molecules that replicate the beauty of natural scents while being more eco-friendly.

Some of the biggest names in fragrance development are leading the way in sustainable innovation. Firmenich, for instance, has created Ambrox Super: a biodegradable alternative to traditional ambergris, ensuring that whales are left undisturbed in their natural habitats.

Givaudan has bioengineered Ambrofix: a sustainable fermentation-based alternative to ambergris, reducing reliance on animal-derived ingredients. They’ve also introduced Akigalawood, a molecule that captures the essence of natural agarwood.

Other brands are using upcycling to make the most of natural resources. LMR Naturals by IFF focuses on reducing waste by repurposing materials from the food and agriculture industries, such as extracting essential oils from upcycled neroli blossoms or using bio-sourced solvents to create renewable absolutes.

It’s important to remember that sustainability in fragrance isn’t about choosing between synthetic or natural… it’s about balance. Some natural ingredients (when sourced responsibly) can be sustainable, while others put a strain on the planet. By embracing lab-made alternatives alongside ethically sourced naturals, we can enjoy beautiful scents while also protecting the environment.