Narcissus flowers have something very uplifting for our eyes, heart and nose. It’s not from the common species we find everywhere that we extract its perfume, but from the wild Narcissus Poeticus which grows in France. It is more refined and extremely fragrant. The narcissus absolute is one of the rarest and most expensive extracts found in perfumery, because you only obtain 1kg of the precious extract out of an entire field of flowers! (1500kg of flowers = 800,000 flowers!). It’s liquid gold…
It is not from the flowers but from the roots that the precious orris extracts are obtained. The orris butter, oil and absolute are some of the most expensive ingredients used in perfumery due to their long extraction process. It takes 3 to 5 years to the drying roots to mature and produce the star component: Irone. Orris extract smells powdery, fatty buttery, earthy and is often associated to the smell of violet
Is quite the sticky thing! Labdanum absolute is a dark brown gum and is a wonderful ingredient if you manage to manipulate it. It is extracted from the fragrant sap of a Mediterranean shrub called Cistus. The extract has a balsamic, amber, leathery, a touch aromatic and animals scent and is traditionally used in oriental notes.
The colour of perfume concentrate – made of of a blend of pure natural extracts and other synthetic perfumery ingredients – has an hypnotising hue. Like other oils, it shimmers with gold and silver, and has a tone that varies between transparent and brown.
The smell of freesia is transparent, fresh, green, lemony and spicy. Its odour cannot be extracted in perfumery but is instead reconstituted by perfumers using a large quantity of ethyl linalol and linalol and touches of green notes and other transparent floral ingredients. Linalol is a compound naturally present in flowers and is the main component of freesia. In fact, in some species, it is found at above 90%! Which is why freesia smells of linalol and vice versa. Nature is chemistry…
EAU DE TOILETTE vs EAU DE PARFUM
A fragrance is made out of the concentrate (or oil): the pure blend of ingredients (what smells) and alcohol (the carrier). EdT is generally concentrated at 10 to 12% in alcohol, which means that in any 100ml of your perfume, you have 10ml (or 12) of the pure oil while the rest is alcohol. EdP is generally concentrated around 15% and the same logic applies. However, nowadays, EdT and EdP are very often different fragrances, with EdP being a more intense version than EdT, for instance, woodier, more amber and sweeter.